Modern Farmer magazine calls the Cornish game hen "a tiny liar," because it is not game and has a 50 percent chance of being male. Oh, and it need not contain a speck of Cornish chicken DNA, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
I'd rather see it as a kitchen aid, with benefits. This bird, slaughtered at less than 5 weeks old and weighing considerably less, sometimes less than half as much, as its broiler/fryer elders, has the same anatomy — just smaller. Anyone who wants to practice breaking down a whole chicken into parts can start on a less-intimidating Cornish hen, with a sharp paring knife. They might find it easier, in fact. It isn't small enough to be fiddly, and the joints pop with little effort.
When organic or pastured, the small birds can cost more per pound than boneless, skinless chicken breasts. But Cornish hens are in less demand now than 20 or 30 years ago, so when sell-by dates close in, they often are priced to fly off the shelf. A recent grocery sale, with loyalty card, reduced the price to $2.88 for a two-pound bird.
It could be harder for the cook of a small household to justify dispatching a four- or five-pounder, but a Cornish hen can make a meal or three. Separate pieces roast quick enough to do on a weeknight; you don’t need to break down the leg quarters further into drumstick and thigh. Because they are young, they contain less fat than an older chicken. It takes about 30 minutes to roast eight Cornish hen pieces in a 425-degree oven, pictured on a quarter-baking sheet above, dressed with olive oil, fresh herbs, salt and pepper.
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